Do you have something iconic in your life, something to which you keep coming back in your thoughts, and every time you feel really good about yourself?  For me, it was a recent short voyage in the replica of HMB Endeavour, James Cook's bark during his first circumnavigation of the world from 1768 to 1771.

I have visited this tall sailing ship, which stands near the pier of the Australian National Maritime Museum, dozens of times.  As a Ukrainian author of some books about Captain Cook,¹ I have given several tours about him for the Ukrainian community in Sydney, and always was happy to see their reaction.  I do not remember a single case when this wonderful ship and her history did not captivate visitors.

So, when I heard that Endeavor was going to sail, and there was an opportunity to join the team, I did not hesitate.  Of course, at the age of almost 70 it was a bit late to learn seamanship.  Therefore, I applied for a supernumerary position, which would give me the opportunity to decide for myself where and how I would be helpful.  In addition, this status provided certain privileges in terms of amenities, such as a private cabin with a swinging bed (not a hammock on the common deck like sailors have); a steward, who took care of the supernumeraries and helped them overcome certain difficulties; and a separate bathroom near the cabins.

Along with the application, I had to provide a medical certificate from my doctor, and sign a Crew Member Form assuring the organisers that I understood all the difficulties and risks of open ocean sailing.  I was not sure that my candidacy would be accepted.  Looking back to the time of the British fleet in the 18th century, we remember that the presence of women on ships was prohibited.  On the other hand, I was well aware of modern Austra­lian customs regarding gender, and also those of age equality.  Be that as it may, I was delighted when they accepted me!

The name of our voyage was “Follow the wind”.  Its task was to check the vessel after several years of being moored at the pier in Darling Harbour.  No exact route was specified, it would be dependent on the wind direction and the ship’s condition.  We would simply go out into the open ocean, and come back after trying to use as many sailing techniques as the weather permitted.

Master Anthony Longhurst and Chief Officer Mike Dallen, along with 14 other Professional Crew members, did not promise to raise all of the sails during the voyage, but they assured us they would do their best.  Apart the professional crew, there was also a voyage crew of volunteers taking the full complement to 36 people (though I am not sure that all of the vacancies were filled), and four super­numeraries (including myself).  All participants received a package of instructions, including how to work aloft on the masts and yards.  I carefully studied everything, and at 8 o’clock on the morning of 5 February, 2024, arrived at the ship.

The crew was divided into three watches, and spent the whole morning in different training sessions.  Late in the afternoon we left Darling Harbour, and began our voyage with a gorgeous passage through Sydney Harbour.  When the North and South Heads of Port Jackson were behind us, Endeavour was faced with first signs of the sea’s wildness.  I was happy finding myself not suffering from seasickness, which unfortunately was not the case for some of our shipmates.  Those who felt well, gathered in the modern canteen and enjoyed some tasty food.  The canteen and other modern amenities (such as kitchen, bathrooms, lockers) are invisible to ordinary visitors to the ship.  Together with two engines, they are on the lower deck of the ship, and represent Endeavour of the 20th century, contrary to the other decks that belong to Endeavour of 18th century.

The first night in the ship was fine.  My swinging bed appeared to be very comfy, and the tiny cabin of astronomer Charles Green contained all the necessary things for me, including a very stylish small chest of drawers with inlay, and a wooden locker.  The other supernumeraries occupied the cabins of Joseph Banks, Sydney Parkinson and Daniel Solander.  Master Anthony Longhurst had Cook's cabin.  The members of professional crew occupied the cabins of the commissioned officers and warrant-officers of the original Endeavour crew.  The volunteer voyage crew slept in hammocks on the communal 18th-century mess deck.

Everyone was encouraged to participate in the watches, but not all were able to do so due to seasick­ness or injuries.  In my case, it was a severe bump from hitting a beam during a storm.  Fortunately, everything ended well.  However, my side reminds me from time to time of this incident.

The further we moved away from the coast of Australia, the rougher were the seas we faced.  Only two sails were raised.  One of the engines appeared to be out of order.  Finally, a real storm arose with rain, wind squalls of 35 knots, and waves up to seven meters.  Anthony Longhurst announced that we were going to turn to Broken Bay, which lies north-east of Sydney, and spend a night there at anchorage.  However, the weather conditions worsened, and problems with one of the engines led him to decide to go back to Sydney Harbour.  After a stormy night, during which my swinging bed was thrown from side to side, we were delighted to meet sunny skies and a quiet morning in one of the most beautiful bays in the world.  Despite our trip having been shortened from five to four days, I did not complain.

I am not sure I will ever repeat such a risky voyage, but I am extremely happy that I have done it!  I would like to thank the professional crew of the Endeavour replica for their excellent work, and to wish the participants of future voyages more luck with the weather conditions.  Seven feet under the keel!

Yevgeniya Chemerys

References

1. See page 23.

Originally published in Cook's Log, page 44, volume 47, number 2 (2024).